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Vaccinations - a combined vaccination of parvo, distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza, adenovirus and corona (DHPPC), for some breeds - leptospirosis (DHLPPC), should be administered every 3 to 4 weeks, beginning at 8 weeks and ending at 16 weeks of age or greater. Puppies exposed or at risk in a breeding facility or kennel should receive an additional parvo vaccination at 19-20 weeks. Additional vaccinations may be needed due to your puppy's lifestyle are bordetella (kennel cough), lymes and possible giardia. Again, these vaccines are administered in a series 3 to 4 weeks apart.
Rabies - required by law. Your puppy should be receive it's first vaccination at 16 weeks of age and yearly thereafter.
Stool/fecal samples - we recommend that at least 2 fresh samples be examined in our lab for worms, eggs and protozoa. Parasites are not always seen in the stool, so 1-2 negative samples does NOT always mean your puppy is free of parasites! Yearly testing is recommended for adult dogs: more often if they have gastrointestinal problems.
Heartworm - on the rise in our area, prevention is essential! We recommend that every puppy/dog be tested yearly and on preventative year round. The preventative can be done orally monthly in a beef flavored treat.
Spay / Neutering A. Females - at 6 months of age; to prevent unwanted puppies, infections, tumors, cancers of the uterus, ovaries and mammary glands. B. Males - at 6 months of age; to prevent male behaviors such as marking, mounting, aggression, infections, tumors and cancers of the prostate, testicles and perianal area.
Feeding - Usually 3 times daily is recommended until 4 - 5 months, then twice daily until 8 - 9 months, then either once or twice a day depending on the dog's and owner's schedule. **Large breeds may need to be fed more frequently, check with your veterinarian.
Grooming - brush, cut nails and clean ears on a regular basis using 1/2 warm water and 1/2 vinegar with a cotton ball. Get your puppy used to being handled by touching feet and ears and opening mouth on a regular basis.
Obedience - it is always recommended to take your puppy to an obedience class. You and your puppy will learn to communicate with each other and work as a team. We have training by Ashley Trotter in our basement once a week. More information can be found on obedience clicking the "About our Clinic" tab.
Routine Exams You and your puppy will soon be best friends, but there's someone who is a good friend too - your veterinarian. Your veterinarian will start your puppy on a vaccination schedule and will advise you when boosters are necessary. Make sure your dog gets regular veterinarian checkups. When you take your pet for a veterinary appointment, you should know what to expect. Some of the common diagnostic tests your veterinarian may want to perform include fecal exams, to check for internal parasites, and blood test, to check for serious diseases. During the physical exam, your veterinarian will feel your puppy's abdomen, listen to the chest for heart and breath sounds, check the condition of the coat, look in the ears for infection and/or ear mites, examine eyes to make sure they are clear and free of disease, and inspect the mouth for signs of tartar buildup and gum disease. The doctor will also ask if you've noticed any problems lately with your pet's health or if your puppy has been exposed to other dogs with diseases.
Eyes - your puppy's eyes should be bright and clear. Any discharge collecting in the corners should be cleaned using cotton balls soaked in warm water. Also look for lumps and masses on the lids. Report any abnormalities to the doctor.
Ears -your puppy's ears should be clean in appearance and free of discharge and odors.
Nose - your puppy's nose should be clean and wet without discharge or sores.
Mouth - examine your puppy's mouth periodically. The gums should be pink and healthy. Start cleaning the teeth at home at an early age. The doctor can get you started with the proper toothpaste. Otherwise, as in humans, tartar buildup can lead to gum disease and tooth loss. Check lips for sores and growths.
Body/Coat - feel your puppy's body for tumors, lumps and ticks by running your hands over its coat. Ruffling your hand against the hair will disclose fleas, dandruff and dirt. If your pet's coat is matted, remove them by using a small comb.
Legs/Feet - inspect your puppys legs for swollen joints by running your hands down the legs. Check between the toes for hair and other objects. Also check the conditions of the nails.
Vaccinations will be given during routine veterinary visits, if needed, and your puppy will be weighed to make sure it's at an ideal weight. Don't be afraid to ask your veterinarian questions you have about your pet's health or care at this time. Your veterinarian is your best source of information. You can rely on your veterinarian to maintain records of your dog's health and to send you reminders when checkups are due; you should also keep track of this information along with any changes in your pet's health.
How to Give Medication If your puppy is sick, your veterinarian may prescribe oral medication for your pet. These methods for giving medication will come in handy. If you have to give your puppy tablets, the easiest way is to hide the pill inside a small amount of canned food or liver sausage. Take a small amount of food and shape it into a meatball, then hide the pill inside. Offer this to the puppy as a treat. Your veterinarian can show you how to give a pill directly, should it be necessary. If you must give your puppy a liquid medication, insert a dropper between the teeth and cheek while tilting the chin up, slowly dispense the medication.
Cage Training A valuable aide in the training of puppies or for use in dogs with certain behavior problems is a cage or crate. House training, destructive behavior and hyper excitability in the owner's absence are all problems that can be helped by confinement. Contrary to popular belief, cage training is not cruel. Dogs by nature feel quite secure in a den like area. If trained properly, dogs will accept a cage as their personal place. It can become their permanent home for sleeping in small, close places, which is why they often curl up on a chair or under a bed. To start your training, begin by choosing a crate size to fit your dog. If you are purchasing a cage for a puppy, buy one large enough to accomodate him when he is fully grown. For puppies, however, it is recommended that you temporarily partition the cage. A puppy housed in a large cage has too much room to roam and may have accidents in the cage. Two types of crates are available. The first type is a heavily molded plastic variety commonly used for airline travel. The second, a more open ventilated type, is the wire cage. The wire cage has less privacy but a blanket can be used to cover part of it. The wire cage is the most recommended. When starting the actual training, begin with strictly positive experiences. First throw a treat into the cage and leave the door open so the dog can come and go freely. Repeat this several times over a day or two. Secondly, start feeding the dog or puppy in the cage. Again, keep the door open so the dog can leave when finished.
After he becomes comfortable entering and leaving, close the door for a few minutes while the dog eats or has his treats. Keep the door closed just for a few minutes and gradually increase the time over days. If your pet throws a temper tantrum, do not let him out till he settles down, otherwise you are giving into his demands.
You may place the cage in your bedroom at night so the dog or puppy can feel your presence and be reassured that you are near. If a puppy becomes restless, it may need to be taken outside. Another option is to place the cage in a different where your puppy's crying would not disturb your sleep. Add content here ... |

